DEVOUR
Biological Fabrication
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Mycelial Textile Decomposition System
Project Description
Devour investigates mycelium as an active agent in addressing textile waste through biological decomposition rather than conventional recycling. The project examines how selected fungal strains colonize and transform polyester-based textiles under controlled conditions. By positioning fungal growth as both a material process and a design collaborator, Devour proposes a bio-informed framework for developing textile systems that evolve through interspecies interaction.
Tools Used
Vacuum Former, Sewing Machine, Laser Cutter, Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM), Compound Microscopes, Petri Dishes, Sanitation Equipment and Tools, Mycelium Inoculation Tools, Still Air Chamber
Collaborators
Latika Balachander – Patternmaker and Design Consultant
Thesis Chair
Ayako Takase
Thesis Advisors
Joy Ko
Roxana Ghani (Owner of Poly Pearl)
Methodology
Devour was developed through controlled experiments examining how selected fungal strains colonize and decompose polyester-based textiles. Pleurotus eryngii,Pleurotus ostreatus and Pestalotiopsis microspora (Poly Pearl) were introduced to synthetic textile samples under sterile, regulated conditions.
Textiles were inoculated in sealed containers to limit contamination and control environmental variables. Growth was documented over time to observe material transformation, including changes in texture, density, and structural integrity. Experimental results informed iterative adjustments, treating fungal growth as an active material process within the design system.
Observations and Findings
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Pleurotus ostreatus (Poly Pearl) on blue polyester with grain exhibited earlier visible colonization and more continuous mycelial coverage across documented stages.
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Pleurotus eryngii (Black King cultivar) on blue polyester with grain similarly demonstrated rapid colonization and dense mycelial network formation within the observation period.
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Pleurotus ostreatus (Poly Pearl) on blue polyester without grain showed slower progression, with growth remaining more spatially constrained over time.
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Pestalotiopsis microspora on blue polyester without grain exhibited slow, localized colonization with limited material integration.
Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)
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SEM imaging was used to examine surface-level changes in polyester fibers following fungal exposure.
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After a limited colonization period, localized surface disruption was observed on individual fibers.
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Due to the short duration of this experiment and limited sampling, SEM results are treated as preliminary.
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Further analysis is required to assess the extent, consistency, and progression of degradation over longer timeframes.
Design Process
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Modular containment systems were developed to house colonized textiles, incorporating zipper enclosures, removable backings, waterproof linings, ventilation ports, and injection points for inoculation.
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Pouch geometries were translated from flat textile assemblies into three-dimensional forms to support containment, access, and post-growth material extraction.
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Garment structures were designed to maintain environmental conditions required for fungal viability during wear, including moisture retention and thermal stability.
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Three system scales were developed to test accessibility, exposure duration, and structural complexity across different use scenarios.
Garment System Applications
These garments below translate the experimental containment system into wearable formats, each designed to test different levels of user interaction, exposure duration, and system complexity.
Ready To Wear
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Modular garment incorporating a sealed mycelium pouch.
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Designed for short-duration wear and minimal user intervention.
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Prioritizes containment, visibility, and ease of removal.
Event Wear
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Garments designed for short-term public exposure of fungal–textile systems.
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Containment chambers are integrated into garment structures, allowing increased material visibility while maintaining system control.
Couture
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Couture silhouette used to integrate vacuum-formed containment chambers at larger scale.
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Prioritizes high-visibility placement of fungal–textile modules while maintaining containment and garment structure.
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Tests how chamber geometry, sealing, and placement affect growth conditions and material change over time.
Limitations & Scope
This work represents an early-stage, exploratory system. Observations are based on controlled, small-scale trials and documented visually over time. Results are not intended to establish causality or long-term performance. The project demonstrates a framework for studying fungal–polyester interaction and wearable containment systems, with future work required to quantify degradation, material properties, and scalability.